Free-standing mast – Requirements

Following on from my previous post I thought I would describe the design process for the free-standing mast. Any design process needs requirements, so here goes:

  1. Strong enough to capsize the boat, with a safety factor. Normally expressed as a righting moment in Nm. For a yacht this will be approximately 1/4 of the beam (width) of the yacht multiplied by the displacement (weight). A dinghy is trickier since the crew move around to balance the boat – two crew hanging over the side can provide a large righting moment.
  2. As light as possible. A heavy mast will tend to capsize the boat. It also will be harder to raise and will make moving the boat on land harder. The weight of the bottom section doesn’t matter too much, but the top 1/2 or 1/3 should be as light as possible.
  3. As thin as possible. The mast will catch the wind with the sail up and down. When the sail is up a thin mast will improve performance. When the sail is down a thin mast will have less drag when rowing and manoevering the boat.
  4. I want to be able to sell the Wanderer eventually. There isn’t much of a market for junk rigged boats so the hull must be able to use the bermuda rig with as few changes as possible. This means that the mast must fit through the existing hole in the deck which imposes a maximum mast diameter of around 71mm. It must also use the existing mast foot.
  5. Cheap. This is a hobby.
  6. Easy to make, if necessary.
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Junk rig conversion

I’m considering converting my Wanderer dinghy to junk rig from the existing bermuda rig. This obviously raises the question why! It is a lot of work and the existing rig has a very good reputation.

Reason number 1 is I like tinkering with things.

Reason number 2 is that I sail with two small children. Normally, when sailing, one has 100% concentration on the weather, waves, wind, what the boat is doing and how the sails are responding. This is great fun. However, with my current sailing, one child has just dropped something over the side and the other is making a spirited attempt to drop themselves over the side. I need 95% of my attention on the kids, and the remaining 5% is mostly making sure that I don’t hit anything. Both children also want to steer and this is to be encouraged as I want them to learn and to enjoy themselves. With a child steering a boat with a bermuda rig I would always be worried about a gybe – where the sail flicks across the boat with the wind behind the boat – as a bad gybe can damage the rig or capsize the boat.

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Wanderer dinghy centreboard repair

My Wanderer is about 40 years old. The centreboard isn’t the easiest thing to inspect or get out, plus it is deep so hits things. Overall the condition was fine but the tip had seen better days. The wood was starting to go soft where it had been immersed in water without any varnish. I probably could have just varnished it but being me I wanted to fix it up.

My experience with the rudder meant that I didn’t want to try fibreglass tape and epoxy. Instead I thought I’d try some iroko on the leading edge and tip.

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Wanderer dinghy rudder

In a previous post I added an iroko bush to the rudder. I also wanted to reinforce the leading edge and bottom of the blade. My blade was showing scuff marks where it had hit things.

I initially tried putting fibreglass tape and epoxy onto the leading edge:

Fibreglass tape covered in West System epoxy

The problem was that it looked horrible – probably due to my inexperience with fibreglass tape. The rudder is very visible and I want it to look nice.

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Wanderer centreboard pivot bush

Making the bushings for the centreboard. This has an iroko bush fitted to the centreboard, pivoting on an acetal bush around the bolt. The acetal bush serves two purposes:

  • It acts as a spacer in the centreboard case, ensuring that the centreboard bolt cannot clamp the centreboard too tightly. This makes stopping the centreboard bolt leaking simpler.
  • It provides a nice surface for the iroko to move on.

Note that the hole in the acetal bush is countersunk – hopefully this will make it easier to get everything aligned when it is fitted.

Wanderer dinghy rudder bush

This is me being fussy – I know – but I don’t really like wood bearing on steel bolts. Thus I wanted to put a bush into the rudder plate to act as a bearing. I was going to use acetal/Delrin but this is tricky to bond to the rudder blade, so I used iroko instead. While this is still wood it is very tough and pretty much waterproof. It can also be epoxied to the rudder blade.

Setting up the rudder blade for drilling

Making the iroko bush

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