As mentioned previously I used the existing cable – just shortening it a bit. The remaining length is ok and I didn’t need to get a cable through the axle from scratch.
I carefully drew a diagram of the colours of the wires and reconnected the new ends to the correct colour. The soldered joints were covered in heat shrink and self-almalgamating tape.
I didn’t use any glue, putty or sealant. I reused the existing wire ties and added another around the omega clip.
Note that the wire exits the axle inside the motor on the same side as the aperture on the end of the axle. This means that if the aperture on the end faces downwards, and any water gets into the axle, it will drain into the motor. Whereas if the aperture on the end faces upwards then water cannot get out of the axle into the motor.
I’ve got a 2010 Mazda 6 with about 100,000 miles on the clock. It’s a great car – lovely to drive and very reliable. However it did something interesting to me the other day.
I folded the rear seats down to get a bike in the boot. When I tried to put the seats back up one side wouldn’t move – the seat belt had locked itself. I suspect the inertia reel units have something to stop them locking in the down position and this has stopped working due to age.
The seat is designed to be worked on when it is in the upright position – locked down everything gets much harder! I wanted to take the car to the garage for them to have a look but all the Mazda garages are closed due to COVID-19.
One option to get fitter, reduce car costs and reduce carbon emissions is to:
Drive myself and the kids to school in the car;
Get bike out of the car boot and cycle home;
Cycle back in at pick up time, dismantle bike and put it back in the boot of the car;
Get kids and drive back in the car.
I discovered that a bike my dad bought me for school will fit in the boot of the car with its wheels off. It is a nice bike – great fun to ride. However the freewheel was free in both directions and the paint was coming off, leading to rust.
First stage was to strip off the old paint. I was going to get the frame shot-blasted and powder coated. However I couldn’t find anyone locally to do this – most calls went unreturned – and I didn’t want to put the frame in the post due to the risk of damage. For this bike I don’t really care what it looks like – the paint needs to stop rust and if it looks rough it is less likely to get stolen.
We’ve got an Arkana tulip table. Nice thing – very second hand and a bit battered but practical and nice to look at.
However there isn’t much structure in it – the skin is the only thing holding it together and that is just plastic – no fibreglass reinforcement. This obviously works – the table has lasted around 50 years – but in the summer the base cracked. When this happens it isn’t obvious – there is a loud noise but the table remains mostly stable and it was a while before we found the crack.
Haven’t seen this before – something of a design problem with our 36V Li battery powered strimmer. It worked very well – sometimes lacking cutting ability on thicker stuff but overall much better than a petrol strimmer. Then it jammed solid.